Birth of the a New Kind of Fashion Collaboration It was said by Janet Flanner, The New Yorker’s Paris correspondent at the time, “A dress from Schiaparelli ranks like a modern canvas.” Coco Chanel on the left, and Elsa Schiaparelli on the right. These fierce competitors were often heard making snide remarks about each other and Chanel not so fondly referred to Schiaparelli as “The Italian artist who makes clothes.” Although Mme Chanel was attempting to put Elsa Schiaparelli down, this connection to art fueled her success. It was the flamboyant against the simplistic. They moved in the same social circles competing for the same audience and clientele with opposing concepts. These two irreplaceable women were working in the same vein and both in ways that revolutionized fashion. Chanel was Elsa’s contemporary and competitor, and at times Coco existed in the background of Schiaparelli’s success. The punch-packing name of Chanel continues to dominate the fashion scene, only taking on more steam in recent decades. Astrology, tattoos, paganism, the circus and of course Surrealist art were just a few of her collections varied themes.Ī Fashion Rivalry of Epic Proportions, Chanel vs Schiaparelli Never before had the couture houses of Paris seen collections of futuristic designs crafted with innovation and inspired by the unconventional. Many would still consider some of Elsa Schiaparelli’s fashion design “shocking” (indeed, shocking was a word Schiaparelli made her own). Much of what we do see in today’s climate owes it’s daring to the likes of Elsa Schiaparelli. Elsa Schiaparelli mastered the genre of wearable art. If considered in the context of today’s world, the work of this prolific fashion designer continues to be a shining beacon of experimental design. Fashion Meets Astrology, Tattoos, Paganism and Surrealist Art Elsa’s innovative (and infamous) Shoe Hat, 1938, Wool felt and silk velvet, Victoria and Albert Museum. Practical and whimsical at the same time, Elsa Schiaparelli called upon the muses of irony, eccentricity and function without detracting from the sensuality of a woman’s form. In her creations one can chart the shifting roles of women and the social revolution that inspired them. Next came New York, London, Moscow and Hollywood, all who encountered Schiaparelli’s designs paid homage to the eccentric glamour embodied within it. And it fell madly in love with her” proclaimed Yves Saint Laurent. In the roaring 20’s and glittering 30’s, Elsa Schiaparelli was considered the reigning monarch of women’s fashion. Although Chanel may have won the prize for fashion notoriety we think Elsa Schiaparelli takes the cake for daring innovation. A rival of Coco Chanel, she set herself apart from the pack by collaborating with avant-garde artists such as Surrealist Salvador Dalí and poet Jean Cocteau. While the world may not remember her, evidence of Elsa Schiaparelli’s influence abounds in the very foundation of fashion. And even if you’ve heard of Elsa Schiaparelli before, you may have trouble conjuring up an image of her designs. In August 1934 she was the first female fashion designer to grace the cover of Time Magazine, yet somehow the life and work of this extraordinary woman has faded from public consciousness. There can be no doubt that Elsa Schiaparelli was one of the greatest fashion designers in history, and yet, it is highly likely that you, or even some of your most fashion savvy friends, aren’t perfectly familiar with her name.
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